When we were thick in the middle of the adoption process, Ray liked to say he was “All in.” In fact, Ray coined it and we both started saying it. If we were going to do it, we wanted to jump in and do it. That’s what we did. Since then, it’s something I think about and try to apply to lots of different aspects of our lives. 

I’ve been known to mention that I don’t want my kids to live in fear. I want them to give their all and try new things. Sadly, I wasn’t doing what I was asking them to do. Today I did.

I’ve thought about surfing since we moved here. Oh to be the cool girl on the board, cutting through the waves. Well, I’m here to tell you that I am certainly not cool and my days as a girl are long behind me but I did manage to stand up on a board during my very first surfing lesson today. When we got here I thought I didn’t have enough upper body strength or balance. I was also managing to do what drives me up the wall when my kids do it. I didn’t want to look like an idiot or be the only one who couldn’t possibly get up. 

Then I met Joe.



He was with me on my first paddle to the Mokes…and pointed out the sharks. We had a bit of an argument today. I’m no longer quite shark bait. We’re almost the same color. (sharks prefer white meat according to most locals) He thinks that everyone that wants to try to surf, should try to surf. 

I paddled out. I was too high on the board. I paddled out. I was too low on the board. Third time’s the charm yeah? Nope. I wasn’t fast enough. I paddled back around in line as fast as I could. Yes, my arms and especially my back are already sore. Fourth time, I got up. I can’t even begin to explain the feeling. I’m officially a junkie. I kept paddling out and coming back. I didn’t make it up every time, but the times I did…worth every second. 

So a couple of things… I need to thank my buddy Lorraine for being game and going along with me. I also need to thank the trainers at Dumbell Fitness. I never really understood that a burpee would have such a high pay off until today. Burpees, pushups and planks really are my friend. 

I sadly didn’t get a single picture. I had witnesses though. What I hope my kids heard in my voice when I was talking about it was that I didn’t care that my shirt wasn’t staying put or that I kept falling. I was having fun. I didn’t care if I didn’t look like Bethany Hamilton. I don’t see many surfers who do. I was having fun. I didn’t care who was watching. I was getting up on that board for me, to try something new and do the very best I could do. Sadly, I wish I hadn’t waited until we have just over a year left here.

I’m already planning the next ladies’ day adventure with Joe. (And also begging Ray to extend but it’s still not working.)