Don’t let the goofy grin fool you. I have a lot on my mind. It’s about that time of Ray’s tour that I start to wonder where we’ll be headed next. (Have I mentioned that I want to stay right here? Have I mentioned that Ray tells me daily it’s not an option?) I worry about everything that is happening back home and the fact that I’m not there to help too. It’s nice to have a day like yesterday that I can meet up with a bunch of fun crazy ladies to try something new. Being in the ocean seems to wash all those worries away or at least keep them at bay for a few hours. When I go to the beach with the kids, I’m always on guard. Did I mention Bria is my daughter? Saturday she nearly gave me a nervous breakdown insisting that she swim with the big girls past a drop off that was clearly over her head. When I’m with another group of ladies and not my kids, I can let my hair down quite literally and just have a good time. It was needed.
Yesterday I had my second surf lesson. I know it’s not for some people. I am literally falling off the board far more often than I’m up on it. I wore the wrong suit (See that picture on the left?) I’m clearly not a natural. I apparently need to work on my core, my center of gravity and having a back that felt like it belonged to a 90-year old man after a little bootcamp tweak this week. I’m still out there. And I’m having a ball!
Let me introduce you to my instructor Joe.
Joe is thebomb.com. He is also my instructor. Seriously, he has the patience of a saint when it comes to teaching me. He is the first one jumping up and down screaming if I get up. He laughs and tells me I’m doing the same thing wrong EVERY SINGLE TIME. At least I’m consistent? He loves surfing and somehow seems to get everyone else to love it the same way he does. Of course he also has the best job in the world. He hangs in the water with us, then he gets to surf while we try it out on our own. You just can’t beat that with a stick.
So please excuse the lack of posts. I have a very limited time here in Hawaii. Good grief… I can’t pack it all in fast enough. I may or may not have asked a buddy who was moving if she was going to sell a surf board. I may have lost my ever loving mind! I decided yesterday if I could just go 3 or 4 days in a row, I’d totally be Bethany Hamilton. Okay, at least I could ride a wave for longer than a few seconds. There are hikes and snorkeling spots and mountains to climb. I need to get busy!
I have a LONG list of things I need to do before someone drags me kicking and screaming off of this little island. Apparently I missed jumping off the back of the Mokes the last time I was there. Joe assured me I would eventually get out there and be able to do it. Of course, after that adrenaline rush I’m not sure I would have it left in me to paddle back. Don’t worry mom, no time soon…
I want my kids to remember this…and I’m trying to my best to be an example of it. It drives me crazy when they won’t try something out of nervousness of what might happen.
And I’ve had experience at lots of things. Like yesterday with these ladies…